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Morning
Museo Sorolla. The painter's house and Andalusian garden, hung with his own Mediterranean light — the best small museum in Madrid, €3.
Ponzano bar by bar. Start at the Mercado de Chamberí end and work north: classic tabernas, seafood counters and new-wave tapas in a single kilometre.
Afternoon
Olavide, Almagro & the Sorolla garden — 3 km · 1.5 h. Plaza de Olavide → Calle de Santa Engracia → Museo Sorolla → the palacetes of the Almagro quarter → Plaza de Chamberí → back via the Mercado. Genteel streets, garden museums, no crowds.
Andén 0 — the ghost station. Chamberí's 1919 metro station, closed in 1966 and preserved intact — original tiled adverts and all. Free, weekends.
Evening
Plaza de Olavide's circle. An eight-sided plaza of terrazas that does breakfast, vermut, merienda and dinner — watch a full Madrid day rotate around it.
Sleeping here? Around Plaza de Olavide for the picture-book version; the Ponzano corridor for eating your way home every night; the Almagro edge for embassy-quarter elegance near the Sorolla museum. Iglesia and Quevedo stations put the whole district within two stops of the centre.
Questions, answered
Where to sleep: Chamberí
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