Morning
Museo Arqueológico Nacional. The Lady of Elche and thirty centuries of Iberian history in a brilliantly renovated building on Serrano — criminally under-visited.
Mercado de la Paz. Salamanca's covered market: the famous tortilla at Casa Dani, stalls that supply the city's best kitchens, zero tourist mark-up.
Afternoon
Ensanche & Retiro loop — 4 km · 2 h. Puerta de Alcalá → Serrano north past the Archaeological Museum → right on Ortega y Gasset's golden mile → down Príncipe de Vergara → into the Retiro at O'Donnell and across the park to the Crystal Palace.
The Milla de Oro. Serrano, Ortega y Gasset and Jorge Juan — Spanish luxury (Loewe's flagship) and the boutique lanes around Callejón de Jorge Juan.
Evening
Retiro from the Puerta de Alcalá. Enter the park past the neoclassical gate, row the Estanque lake, and find the Palacio de Cristal — all bordering the district.
Sleeping here? The Serrano–Goya crossing is prime — shopping below, Retiro five minutes south. The Lista and Diego de León ends are quieter and better value while staying inside the grid. Recoletos, along the district's western edge, splits the difference between Salamanca polish and old-town proximity.
Questions, answered
Where to sleep: Salamanca
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