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Escapes · 2026-01-22

A Sierra Weekend from Madrid Without a Car

Two days in the Guadarrama on trains and buses alone — the exact connections, the overnight, and the walk-down trick.

Saturday: rails to 1,800 metres

Take the C-8 from Atocha or Chamartín to Cercedilla (~80 min), drop the bag at a hostal near the station, and ride the C-9 mountain line up through the pines to the Puerto de Navacerrada — or on to Cotos for the Peñalara lagoons if the day is settled. Walk down the Camino Schmidt back to Cercedilla (11 km, gravity-assisted, yellow dots the whole way) and be at a chocolatería table by 17:30. Dinner is a mountain menú — judiones, roast, flan — 50 metres from your bed.

Sunday: the Roman road and home

Morning on the Calzada Romana: 2,000-year-old paving up the Fuenfría valley to the 1,796 m pass and back by the miradores track (10 km round). Long lunch in the village, then the C-8 home — you’re back at Atocha before the Sunday evening trains fill. Total transport cost with a zone-T Tourist Pass: the price of two city cocktails.

Variations

Swap Cercedilla for San Lorenzo de El Escorial (bus 661/664 from Moncloa) to trade the second walk for Philip II’s monastery. Or go north instead: bus 191 to Buitrago’s walls with a Saturday night inside them. Winter versions of all three work — the C-9 runs snow services and the roast lunches improve with the weather’s deterioration.

Questions, answered

How early must I start Saturday?
The 8:30–9:30 trains carry the crowd; the 10:00 is calmer and still gives a full mountain day in summer. In winter, take the early one — light is the budget.
Do I need mountain gear?
For the Schmidt and the Roman road: good shoes, water, a layer. Peñalara and anything above the treeline want proper boots and a forecast check — in winter, full kit.

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