Be at the Prado for 10:00 opening with a pre-booked ticket — head straight to Velázquez’s Las Meninas before the tour groups form their semicircle, then Goya’s black paintings and whatever else pulls you. Ninety disciplined minutes beats four exhausted hours. Walk out the north end and straight into the Retiro through the Puerta de Felipe IV: the Estanque lake, the Crystal Palace, and coffee at a kiosk under the trees.
If museums aren’t your engine, invert the morning: the Retiro at 9 when it belongs to runners and dog-walkers, then the Prado’s calmer late-morning slot. Either way, by 13:00 you should be walking west along Calle de las Huertas, reading the golden verses in the pavement.
Lunch near Plaza Mayor — the classic move is a bocadillo de calamares standing at one of the bars on Calle de Botoneras, or a full menú del día one street back where the boards are handwritten. Cross the plaza itself after eating (it photographs better with a full stomach) and drift the Austrias lanes: Plaza de la Villa, the Almudena viewpoint, the Cuesta de la Vega.
This is the hour for the Palacio Real if you want an interior — or simply the Plaza de Oriente and the Sabatini gardens if you’d rather bank the daylight. Both are free ways to feel the scale of the thing.
At golden hour, be at the Templo de Debod — a genuine Egyptian temple, Madrid’s best sunset, and free. From there it’s downhill through Plaza de España onto Gran Vía as the neon warms up.
Dinner is a crawl, not a booking: metro or walk to La Latina and work the Cava Baja one taberna at a time — one tapa, one caña, move. Finish with churros at San Ginés on the way back to the hotel; it’s open whenever you finally get there.
Dead centre. Sol or Huertas put every stop on this page within a 15-minute walk and the airport train at Atocha within 12. If your layover starts at Barajas, the Cercanías C-1 to Atocha is the calmest way in — 25 minutes, no transfers.
Curated picks are coming — meanwhile, the live search covers every bookable property at the same price or better.