Madrid’s own history museum is permanently free, sits behind the most extravagant Baroque doorway in the city, and answers the questions the big art museums raise: why is the capital here at all, what did it look like before the Gran Vía was carved through, who lived in your hotel’s barrio in 1750.
Two floors, ninety minutes, and it turns every subsequent walk through the centre into recognition. Do it early in a trip, not late.
The minimum you must see
01
The Allegory of the Villa de Madrid — Goya
📍 First floor — the painting whose inscription was rewritten by every regime that ruled the city.
02
The 1830 model of Madrid
📍 Basement — a room-sized scale model of the city before the Gran Vía; find your hotel.
03
The Baroque doorway — Pedro de Ribera
📍 The façade itself, Calle de Fuencarral 78 — the most photographed door in Malasaña.
04
Goya-era Madrid rooms
📍 First floor — fans, sabres, majos and the city Goya painted.
Tips
The 1830 model is the single best orientation tool in Madrid — five minutes over it makes the Austrias layout click.
Combine with Malasaña: Plaza del Dos de Mayo is three minutes away, and the vermút hour starts at 13:00.
Questions, answered
Really always free?
Yes — municipal museum, no ticket, walk in past the doorway.
English labelling?
Main texts yes, object labels partly. The building and the model carry you regardless.
What are the opening hours?
Tue–Sun 10:00–20:00, closed Monday — unusually generous evening hours for a free museum.
How long do you need?
Ninety minutes for both floors; five extra minutes over the 1830 model repay themselves for the rest of your trip.
Do I need to book?
No — no ticket, no queue, walk in past the doorway.
What is the nearest metro?
Tribunal (L1/L10), one minute — the Baroque doorway is visible from the exit.
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